Hydrangea Message Board Archive Year 2000
Click HERE to return to active Message Board page.
FROM: Jim Simmons
jjsim@att.net 12/20/00 1:24 PM CentralHi Tory and all, I really would like large prints. Jim
FROM: Tory
tory@subdimension.com 12/19/00 3:20 AM CentralJim, You didn't say if you're looking for print or 'net' pic's .. Pete posted one of mine you are free to use :) Other wise you might check plant catologs, I just received one from Wayside gardens with great pictures, you would have to check with them about copywrites. Another place you could request amateur pictures on the net would be nailnews.com Look at alt.binaries.pictures.gardens or alt.binaries.pictures.fine~art.photos Both places will take requests, tho the art photo people might want compensation or recognition :) Good Luck, Tory
FROM: Jim Simmons
jjsim@att.net 12/18/00 6:31 PM CentralHi I just stumbled on to this BB. I would like to know where I can get some good quality pics or posters, etc of various Hydrangea blossoms. We work with hot glass and would like to try and duplicate some hydrangea blossoms on plates, bowls, wall hangings, etc. Any responces would be greatly apreciated. Thank you Jim
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com 12/18/00 8:10 AM CentralSorry about our message board being out of order. Our web host had a crash and I am just getting the file links restored now.
I want to wish each of you a Joyous Holiday Season and a Happy Year Year.
Pete's 2001 wish: Big Blue Blooms!!!
FROM: Suzy Nikolai
Suzy7899@aol.com 12/05/00 7:41 PM CentralPlease advise me where to find a good quality nursery for hydrangeas in the Tampa Bay area. I live in Dade City, about 30 miles north and east of Tampa and am in Tampa several times a week. I have huge oaks in my yard as well as very sunny spots, so need varieties that will flourish in either spot. Thanks.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com 11/22/00 10:12 AM CentralSorry for not getting to the various questions and comments you have made. We had a death in the family and other career moves that have just taken most of my time for the past month.
Mr. P....
http://detnews.com/homestyl/9609/28/grow/grow.htm
On the issue of Snowhill vs. Snowball Hydrangea, I found one reference to Snowball in a Detroit News Article from 1996.In that article, Snowball is referred to with as Hydrangea arborescens.
I did a patent search for Snowball and Hydrangea and found nothing.
In D. Bowman's book, Hydrangeas, the following:
"In the 1860's H. aborescens gradiflora (commmonly called snowhill hydrangea) was found in the wild either in Pennsylvania or Ohio, depoending on which expert one reads, and in 1907 it was recognized with an Award of Merit by the Royal Horticultural Society."I want to add that in other conversations, I have heard of Snowball hydrangea, but I am at a loss for a good reference.
Tory...
To update you on the experiment I am trying, (see note below, 10/17/00), the leaves seem to be a little bit greener than some of the plants within a few feet. The holes in the bottom have stopped up a few times, and finally the Aluminum Sulfate caked and did not allow the rain to get to the holes. So as far as the flower goes, it seemed to help, but mechanically I need some refinement. I think my next step will be to put holes in the sides of the cup, above the level of the aluminum sulfate. The idea is for the rain to accumulate in the cup, hopefully absord some of the aluminum sulfate and then when the water rises to the levels of the holes, spill out onto the ground.Most of my plants at this point have lost all but a few leaves. We have had a couple of nights of frost down to the mid-20's. I am not really tending to them now. I will continue with a couple more applications of aluminum sulfate during the winter months, on weekends when it is comfortable to be outside.
I have brought in my newly potted plants (3 months or less in the pots). The potted plants from mid-summer and spring I have left outside, their predecessors survived last winter fine, although I don't think we got below the mid-teens at any time.
Bill...
I have had a lot of success in starting cuttings over the winter. Please see the Cuttings page on this web site.HG...
I assume you planted the tree and then the yellow leaves appeared. I experienced that same situation with two Hibiscus plants. I had not watered them well after the initial planting. I had given them "a drink of water" but did not leave a trickle on them. As soon as I got the yellow leaves I saturated the ground with a slow trickle of water left on for many hours. The yellow leaves immediately stopped appearing.I've never kept hydrangeas in the house permanently. I don't know if you should expect a lot of growth keeping them indoors or not. Perhaps somebody else has an answer. My quick feeling is that your plants are not getting enough natural sunlight in the house. Get them outside to experience the morning sun. Given the time of year, you may want to wait until your last deep freeze is past before putting them out. Also be sure the soil is acidic.
Finally to everyone....
Suggest you visit the University of Connecticut website at:
http://www.uconn.edu/
Enter the word hydrangea into their search box, and they have a wealth of information available. I have not sorted through all of it yet. (Actually I couldn't get the links to work this morning - they may have a server down for the holiday.)And, speaking of holidays, I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving!!!
FROM: HG
hg747@siliconinvestor.com 11/22/00 12:37 AM CentralI have a tree hydrangea from Home Depot. The tree was flowering and then suddenly the leaves turned yellow and started falling off... Not sure what I am supposed to do, if anything...? I fell in love with hydrangeas this year and bought >25 ! They're all over my house, but is it just me or do they grow at a snails pace ? The tag did say vigerous grower...
FROM: herve
herve@creastar.com 11/13/00 3:29 PM CentralHello everyone, I recommend you to take a look at http://www.biellafiore.com , it's a Wholesaler of greeting cards, note and holiday cards, and other hand-made fine art stationery. The simple, elegant style of these cards lend a fresh face to the market.They are used for all occasions including birthdays, holidays, weddings, announcements and anniversaries. They make lovely invitations, thank you's and every day notes as well as accompanying floral arrangements beautifully. Each card is a gift in itself.
FROM: Frank teneralli
teneralli@yahoo.com 10/25/00 3:48 PM CentralWhat are the best varieties of hydrangea for drying?
FROM: Frank teneralli
teneralli@yahoo.com 10/25/00 3:47 PM CentralWhat are the best varieties of hydrangea for drying?
FROM: Mr. P
mailto:10/24/00 1:03 PM CentralBill you asked about starting new plants from cuttings. Pete Smith has a section on it but I have tried the Pink, Blue and Tardiva. My sucess rate is about 50% which is OK for me. I do know if the leaves start to droop you should pull a few leaves off or add water to the potting mix you are using. I have had good luck using 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 vermiculite, and 1/3 dried compost material. You mentioned the floresent light but I could not get any plants to grow with just floresent lighting I had to put a special grow light in it for the plants to start growing. I have talked to many nursery people in making PeeGee Hydrangea trees. They all say it takes time and a lot of trimming.
FROM: Bill
billgrubbs@juno.com 10/24/00 12:31 AM CentralI am interested in growing PeeGee Hydrangea trees. I saw one this summer that was absolutely beautiful. Does anyone have experience training them to a standard tree form?
FROM: Bill
billgrubbs@juno.com 10/24/00 12:21 AM CentralI have been gardening for years, but fell in love with hydrangeas this year. I have tried to root cuttings this summer and was not very successful. I live in Utah where it is hot and dry and although I kept the soil watered, the cuttings must not have gotten enough humidity becuse they just shrivled up. I am trying a few more in ziplock bags now and they seem to be doing ok so far. I have a 6 shelf propagation stand with 4 four foot floresent lights over each. I would like to root a bunch of hydrangeas this winter, but don't know if this is a good idea. If this is possible, how would I go about getting them to root? I thought I could just cove them with plastic, but would like to know if anyone else has done this successfully.
FROM: Mr. P
mailto:10/21/00 9:44 PM CentralThanks Troy. from Mr. P
FROM: Tory
tory@subdimension.com 10/21/00 5:06 PM CentralI'm also interested in comments on Pete's experiment. It's been my understanding that the macrophylla's produce blue flowers with aluminum which is available in acid soils and the availability of aluminum is most important during flower development. Recommendations I've seen are for soil drenches of aluminum sulfate at that time. pH determines the availability of other nutrients and minerals for plant growth, what, if any, are the danger's of manipulating the soil pH? Specifically with aluminum sulfate constantly?
FROM: Tory
mailto:10/21/00 3:34 PM CentralMr. P, Many Hydrangea's and Viburnum's are commonly labeled 'SnowBall'. There is a Hydrangea called Hills of Snow, the full name is Hydrangea arborescens 'Grandiflora' this is an older variety of H. arborescens 'Annabelle'. Morning sun would be ok, the H. arborescens bloom on new growth.
FROM: Mr. P
mailto:10/21/00 11:04 AM CentralI should tell everyone I went to another nursery and asked for the Snowball hydrangea. That nurseryman stated their was no such hydrangea. Snowball belongs to another type of flower which maybe a look-a-like hydrangea. I did however ask the same old questions to him about amount of sun and trimming back in the fall and again I heard different methods. So the nursery man brought out two of their flower books and here I found a hydrangea called Snowhill hydrangea. So I must conclude I was incorrect and calling it Snowball from the first note I sent.
FROM: Mr. P
mailto:10/20/00 11:13 AM CentralHello everyone, I have just purchased a "Snowball" hydrangea and need a few facts before I plant. I am in Zone 5, how much sun, and do they bloom on old or new growth ?????? I need to plant this weekend since the rains are coming next week they say. Thanks
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com 10/18/00 8:25 PM CentralKathy...
The following is quoted from the book Hydrangeas, D. P. Rowman, Friedman/Fairfax Publishers, page 74.
"Few plants are able to tolerate the arduous conditions -- the destructive wind, salt spray and poor soil of the seaside. But several hydrangeas are quite adaptable to these conditions."
The text goes on to mention the following for these conditions:
H. macrophylla (that's the formal way of saying hydrangea - mophead or lace cap)'Joseph Banks',
H. macrophylla 'Lanarth White',
H. arborescens 'Annabelle' and 'Grandiflora,
H. paniculata 'Gradiflora', and
H. quercifolia - any of the oak leaf varieties.See http://www.hydrangeasplus.com/catalog_main.html for a further designation of the different Latin names.
If you are futher inland, the typical "Nikko Blue" mophead that is prevalent here in the south may also work fine. See the page on Raising Hydrangea in this website for sun, shade and soil recommendations.
FROM: Kathy
gfeicke@gte.net 10/17/00 6:45 PM CentralI am wondering what variety of hydrangea would be best for the Tampa Bay Florida area.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com 10/17/00 5:24 PM CentralHere is the new idea I promised.
Recently I have tried an experiment to keep feeding small amouts of acid to one of my mophead plants. So far the results are promising. The plant seems to be a a little healthier that its neighbors. Here is what I did. If anyone has any comments or suggestions, please let me know.
This plant is on a slight slope. I dug a hole about six inches from the base of the plant. The hole was about six inches deep and three inches across. Fill the bottom half of the hole with small rocks (pea gravel). Then take a plastic 12 ounce cup and pole a small hole in the bottom. The hole in mine is exactly the size of a bar-b-que spit that happened to be lying on the workbench. Then fill the cup to about one third full of aluminum sulfate and place in the hole. It will be about half out of the ground. Work some dirt down the outside for stability. Every time it rains or I water, a little of the aluminum sulfate works its way into the soil.
I have had this in place for 2-3 weeks. I'm watching the plant closely for any signs of stress from too much acid. But all I've seen so far are some nice healthy looking green leaves. Maybe its just my optimism, but so far so good.
Comments???
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com 10/17/00 5:12 PM CentralI'm behind again with the mail.
From the Message Board...
Gail...
You posted a problem with Nikko Blue Hydrangeas not blooming after trying many combinations of fetilizing, pruning, etc. Two things I would check. First, if your soil is too alkaline for blooming. I have had trouble with blooming when the plant was too close to a concrete driveway on the downhill side. I have been told that concrete leeches slightly forever with an alkaline material. Second, you just not have enough sun - you use the word dappled. I have found the best blooms with a strong morning sun and afternoon shade. Some bloom better than other depending on the amount of sunlight. Even a few feet can make a difference if the shading is different. I would try replanting in a slightly sunnier spot.Also, these plants may be in a slightly lower location than you other plants and getting a harder freeze in the New England winter causing the buds to die.
Brenda...
Your off white blooms may just be the natural cycle as they slowly turn brown during the season. If my blooms last 60 days with full color, I am very pleased. If you are saying that the new blooms each year are turning white without turning blue at all, I would check to be sure you have enough acid in the soil.Jim....
I wish I could help you on the PeeGee's. I continue to appeal to our readers for an expert on PeeGee's to join in and help out with many of the PeeGee questions we get. We have a little information on the PeeGee page on the web site, but it doesn't answer a lot of questions.N. Erikson....
N. asks about the best way to retain color when drying hydrangeas. Tory offered her thoughts on the Archive Page.I'll send a couple of Nikko Blue cuttings (which you admittedly may not need - but I'm trying) to anyone who can answer N's question with authority and also add some more suggestions to the drying blooms methods already offered.
Stephanie...
She is looking for someone in Denver area to donate some mopheads to her wedding next June. I hope someone responded to you Stephanie. It sounds like you will have a beautiful wedding. Congratulations!!!From the email box:
Jane...
Jane asked the best time for cutting hydrangeas to dry. Jane, see Tory's drying information on the archive page.Jeff...
Jeff asks about the best time to prune. Jeff, see the Pruning Section on the Raising Hydrangeas page for info related to mopheads.Ray...
Ray has 2 hydrangeas that he cuts down each fall. Ray, if these are mopheads, and they probably are by the symtoms, the following years blooms come from buds on the prior years growth. See the Raising Hydrangreas page.Gay....
Gay is moving from Nevada to Southern California and wants advice on growing hydrangeas there. Gay, there may be somebody on this list that can help you with local conditions. See the Raising Hydrangeas page and the Cutting page on the web site for everything I know about soil, shade, and your other questions.Cheryl....
Cheryl has a bush in hard clay next to her sidewalk that keeps growing, but not blooming. It is a small backyard and they bump into it frequently. She wants to know what to do with it, kill it or try and transplant it into a better place.Cheryl, I would try and dig it out as best you can. Even if the root system is broken up, you can probably replant it into the front yard without harm. You may even get 2-3 bushes by breaking up the root system. Use good soil when you transplant, see the Raising Hydrangeas page for sun, shade and soil information. Also, the reason it may not be blooming is leeching from the concrete - see the first message earlier. Try planting it further away from the sidewalk.
That's it for now. I will share a new idea with you in my next posting, but I want it to apprear in a separate box on the web site. Look for it.
Just a reminder, still looking for PeeGee and drying bloom help.
Our little band of faithful hydrangea enthusiasts is growing. We have 36 members on the mailing list. Invite a friend to join.
FROM: Stephanie
mailto:10/15/00 10:34 PM CentralHello! I am looking for someone in the Denver metro area with a large hydrangea garden. I am getting married next August and if possible, would like to buy stems of the blue Mophead/Hortensia variety to use in my wedding. I am doing the arrangements myself, and am looking for a lower cost alternative than a florist. Donations are also graciously accepted :) If you can help, please email me at sreyer@leopard.com. Thanks for the help!
FROM: N. ERICKSON
NERICKSONS@AOL.COM 10/05/00 5:32 PM CentralWHAT IS THE BEST DRYING METHOD TO PRESERVE COLOUR OF HYDRANGEA BLOSSOMS?
FROM: Mr. P
mailto:10/05/00 3:12 PM CentralCliming Hydrangea plants. I have found from our local Green Thumbers nusery these plants have suction cups and tentacles that will attach to walls and wrap around small wires or limbs.
FROM: James Curry
james.curry@ssa.gov 10/04/00 11:47 AM CentralI bought several peegee hydrangea plants and plan to use them as background 'drop' along with foxgloves and hosta in front. After I purchased the plants, I learned that they can grow up to 25 feet high which would be monsters against hostas and foxglove plants in front. I am debating whether if I should return the plants and choose other small white flowering hydrangea plants(grows up to approx. 6 ft tall), but before I decide to return them, I am wondering if I could prune the peegee hydrangea down to approx. 5 to 6 feet high without making them woody or stubby? Also I am wondering how long it would take them to grow to 5-6 ft or higher? The plants I have is about 20 inches tall now. Thank you in advance for your response. Jim
FROM: Tory
Igrowrocks@aol.com 10/02/00 1:15 AM CentralThis is a follow up post about pruning oak leaf hydrangeas. Kaeyeao63 asked about pruning, I looked it up and told her to prune the same as for a mophead. She inspired me to buy one, so I did some more research, each place I checked had an opposite opinion about when and how to prune; "they bloom on new growth or last years growth". I'm going to stick to my original source that says they bloom on last years growth, and prune accordingly. I found a good article, if anyone's interested; http://www.nobleplants.com/articles/hydrangeaquercifolia.htm There are nice flower pictures as well as pictures of young plants pruned once, twice and three times (for size and shape). Thanks for the inspiration Kaeyeo! Tory <-- Pete, that's short for Victoria :)
FROM: Brenda
klyrdgvw@davesworld.net 09/30/00 8:35 AM CentralWhen I first got my hydrange plant it had blue blooms, now it's most just a kind of off-white or cream looking color,,what does it need to be blue again?
FROM: Gail Gandolfi
flukesandfinds@mediaone.net 09/29/00 7:17 PM CentralI have 7 of the most gorgeous Nikko Blue Hydrageas that grow every summer to about 5 feet tall and five feet across. I have started about 4 new plants that while smaller are still very healthy. My problem is they only bloom once every 3-4 years (the new ones have only produced 1 or 2 blooms) I have cut them back in the spring, not cut them back, cut them to the ground in the fall, not cut them back, fertilized them heavily, not fertilized them, watered them profusely, not watered them, and this year hit them with a heavy dose of Epsom salts that an old gardener recommended. Why don't they bloom every year? They are gorgeous disease free bushes--very lush and happy looking though my husband has threatened to rip them out. My distress comes from the fact that I am a florist and have to pay $2 a head for the blooms when they do not flower which is most of the time. They are in shade to dappled light on the north side of my home. I live in Massachusetts. Any suggestions--these bushes are twelve years old.
FROM: Tory
Igrowrocks@aol.com
09/28/00 4:50 PM Central
I'll give the drying question a go ... The secret seems to be picking the blooms at the right time. They should feel more papery than fresh and be just fading from their peak color. The method I use is to pick the blooms and put them in a vase with one inch of water. The water seems to allow some leeway in picking at the right time, when the water has evaporated they are well on their way to being dried. Other methods I've heard of: Picking and hanging upside down in a cool dark place. Putting the stems through chicken wire so the heads have some support, again in a cool dark place. The strangest trick I've heard is to pick the blooms and put them in the trunk of your car on a hot day, checking them in the evening to see if they need another day! Getting good dried blooms seems to be more art than science .... Pick at the right time and grow alot of them so you can experiment :)
FROM: kaeyeo63
kaeyeo63@aol.com
09/28/00 4:28 PM Central
Thanks Tory, I kinda figured, after researching it all over the web, that the care for it, is basicaly the same as if it were for ANY hydrangea. You really must get one for you garden, they are gorgeous! This one came from a lady off the net, it was a cutting from her huge plant and it took very well and she sent it to me, I just hope and pray to keep it going. I will post a picture of what it will look like, so others may see as well.....almost reminds me of a white "Lilac", rather than a hydrangea, except the pteals are much larger, but absolutely winter white and gorgeous!
FROM: kaeyeo63
kaeyeo63@aol.com
09/28/00 4:19 PM Central
Thanks Tory, I kinda figured, after researching it all over the web, that the care for it, is basicaly the same as if it were for ANY hydrangea. You really must get one for you garden, they are gorgeous! This one came from a lady off the net, it was a cutting from her huge plant and it took very well and she sent it to me, I just hope and pray to keep it going. I will post a picture of what it will look like, so others may see as well.....almost reminds me of a white "Lilac", rather than a hydrangea, except the pteals are much larger, but absolutely winter white and gorgeous!
FROM: Tory
Igrowrocks@aol.com
09/28/00 4:18 PM Central
Emma, My father in law has had trouble with slugs loving his Hydrangea ... I've had trouble with some kind of green caterpiller. I get them every year about this time, they're hard to find being green, but they leave noticable brown .. poops. Not sure if that helps, but maybe something to look for :) Tory
FROM: Tory
Igrowrocks@aol.com
09/28/00 4:08 PM Central
Karen, It looks like 'Snow Queen' is an H. quercifolia, or Oak leaf Hydrangea. Like Mopheads they will produce next summer's blooms on this year's growth. The book I have says it blooms mid summer, if you need to prune it for size do it by mid July so it will have time to get new growth before dormancy. If size isn't a problem, there's no need to prune. I don't think you'll need to worry about the cold during the winter, but make sure she gets enough water, even while dormant. A good rule of thumb for anything newly planted. Good luck with her! The book I have says "A garden classic ..." Now I want one :) Tory
FROM: Emma
emma@weststock.com
09/28/00 12:57 PM Central
I saw that msg that Tory posted earlier. Am going to try it on my plants that look like they have been covered in white mildew. Also have a question about pests. My two hydrangeas look like they have been munched on by but I can't find any pests. Are there any bugs that just LOVE hydrangeas that I should look for?
FROM: Mr. P
09/28/00 12:20 PM Central
To Gmark changing color of the Pink to Blue only. Add Aluminum Sulfate to the ground this fall and next year they (pink) will turn blue see note below from John on 9\26\00. I think you should read the instructions on the bag or call a local college and ask the Biology dept they should know the appropate amount to apply.
FROM: Karen
kaeyeo63@aol.com
09/28/00 9:02 AM Central
I was hoping someone could tell me a few things about my hydrangea. I have the "snow queen" variety. She is just about 24' tall. When should I (if ever) prune this plant, as time goes on? Also, since I live in Georgia and we don't have severe winters, should I some how protect this plant this winter, since she is newly planted? (i.e; cover, mulch, etc) Please respond to Kaeyeo63@aol.com
FROM: gmark
gmark2001@netscape.net
09/27/00 4:16 PM Central
What do you use to change the color of your Hydrangea?
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
09/27/00 11:53 AM Central
I'm a little slow getting to the mail this week.
Thanks to Marge for tracking down that most Hydrangeas are considered poisonous. Thanks to Tory for replying to Renee's question on mold and Ryo's question on staking.
We need additional answers to Kathy's question if Banana peels will work as a source of Potash, and Mr P's questions about plant protection in Zone 5 and about how far climbing vines will travel.
John...Most of my late season mopheads came in green or turned green. I don't know what Zone you are in, but I suspect that the green is just from the natural cycle.
Teri asked a question by email. "Can you tell me why I have black spots on my hydrangeas? I live in the Charlotte, NC area (clay soil), they are planted in an area where they get some late afternoon filtered sun and we have them hooked up to an irrigation system so they get plenty of water. Any help you can offer is appreciated.
Teri....I have experience black around the edges of the leaves as a result of overwatering. Occassionaly I get some black spotting also, but I have not got a handle on that perhaps someone else has some ideas. You may find that if you are watering in the late afternoon or evening, the minerals in your water supply staying wet on the leaves are causing some of the damage. I get a blue/gray mold from that.
Finally, I have received a couple of replies from persons interested in setting up a Cuttings Swap. I am especially excited about a reply from Luc who is the president of 'Hydrangeum vzw', the association which runs the Belgian reference collection of Hydrangeas (some 300 taxa).
I will start setting up a swap page in a couple of weeks. If you are interested or have suggestions about how a swap page should work, please let me know.
I'm pleased to report that the Annabelle cuttings I told you about last week sent to me from Mr. P seem to be doing well. I got 14 shoots planted and can see new growth on 4 or 5 of them already. I'm generally very pleased with a 50% or better success rate.
Again, I appeal to anyone for a write up on drying hydrangeas and now as winter approaches some good information on protecting the plants over the winter.
Finally, one more interesting question from Jim in the email. "Why are" Pee Gee" Hydrangeas called thus?"
FROM: John
Delanaimp@aol.com
09/26/00 11:15 PM Central
My new hydrangeas started the year off well, forming multiple blue flowers in response to my application of Aluminum Sulfate in early spring. They burned a bit in June-July when the temperature soared, but they held on. Now however, they are producing lots of blooms but they're all GREEN! I added a little more Aluminum in August, but it didn't produce any blue. I'm afraid to add more, as the warning on the box says damage may occur. Is it natural for hydrangeas to quit blooming blue and revert to green at the end of the season? If not, what am I doing wrong? All suggestions gratefully received.
FROM: Mr. P
09/26/00 1:09 PM Central
Climbing Hydrangeas How many stems come out of the ground? If I have a 80' fence can I plant in the middle and split the runners 40' in different directions or plant at the end and hope it will travel the total distance?
FROM: Mr. P
Jondeer4u@aol.com
09/25/00 2:34 PM Central
It is almost winter in Zone 5 and will ask my simple question of how to use in covering my Mophead Hydrangeas from our cold winters. When do I cover and When do I uncover for in the spring. Thanks
FROM: Kathy
gfeicke@gte.net
09/18/00 8:22 PM Central
I am reading a lot about using a potash supplement on hydrangas. Has anyone ever thrown banana peels around hydranga plants? I use them around my hibiscus and other plants for potash. I got that advise from a radio program (Florida Gardening with Gil) in Tampa, FL. He has a website (www.Gilsgarden.com).
FROM: Tory
Igrowrocks@aol.com
09/17/00 8:22 PM Central
Hi Ryo, Sounds like a young plant. Stake it if you want, maybe a short tomato cage? As it matures the stems will get woodier and it should flop less. Check this site's home page under raising hydrangea, Pete recommends removing the blooms on a young plant with good reasons. That would lighten the load and let your stems grow up instead of near the ground. I have an old plant that was a little floppy this year, I'm going to try the potash supplement another poster talked about.
FROM: Tory
Igrowrocks@aol.com
09/17/00 7:36 PM Central
Renee, When you say mold, I think powdery mildew, could that be it? I've had some luck controling it with a spray of 1 teaspoon baking powder and a couple drops of dish soap in a quart of water. Test spray on one or two leaves and avoid spraying in direct sunlight. This works on my mint, I've never had it on my Hydrangea. If it is powdery mildew it won't kill your plant, but it sure looks like it will :) Sorry I don't know Kentucky winters maybe someone else will help.
FROM: Brooke
09/17/00 5:17 PM Central
Please tell me how to safely transplant an entire hydrangea bush. Friends have a bush that is about 5 ft. tall and they don't want it. I would love to move it to my yard. Is this possible. I live in Upstate New York. Thanks! Brooke
FROM: Ryo
cal67@my-deja.com
09/16/00 10:00 PM Central
I just bought a white mophead hydrangea from a local nursery. It consists of a few blossoms and leaves, and just kinda flops on the ground. Does it need a stake to help it "stand up" or will it do fine flopping on the ground? I live in Olympia, Washington. Thank you.
FROM: Renee Chason
snook930@webtv.net
09/16/00 7:39 PM Central
I live in Southern Kentucky I a, not sure of the zone here. However it seems my plants have mold growing on them how do I control this and can it kill my plant if I can't get rid of it? Also do I need to do anything extra to get through this winter?
FROM: Marge
edandmarge@tcmax.net
09/16/00 4:40 PM Central
I checked with yahoo regarding hydranges being poisonous and it is definitely on the list of plants that will cause severe vomiting and is regarded as poisonous if consumed. Do not know anything to add other than what yahoo says.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
09/16/00 4:09 PM Central
Most of the questions and comments this week are posted on the Message Board. We still need some good information on drying hydrangeas.
Susan added her thoughts about using a jar over new cuttings to give a greenhouse effect. Thanks for the suggestion.
I have finally put my thoughts onto a web page about how to plant cuttings. This can be found on http://www.conweb.com/hydrangea/cuttings.shtml
Some of that page repeats the comments I made last week on the Message Board, and I have added much more.
Susan also replied on the Message Board about a comment I had sent to her in a separate email about the idea of setting up a web page for folks to swap cuttings. I thank Mr. P, he has just sent me some Annabelle cuttings and we'll see how well their survive the US Postal Service. If you think you would participate in a Cuttings Swap, please let me know by email at cpsmith@conweb.com. If there is enough interest, I'll set something up.
One question in the email box comes from Tayna. She asks if hydrangeas are poisonous. Does anyone have some definitive information on this or a good on line citation? She wanted to decorate a cake with hydrangea blooms.
The pix gallery has also been redone. I am posting smaller pix on the page to load faster. Users can click on the pix to see larger versions in separate browser windows. One New Comer this week requested more pix on the web site. If you have any good hydrangea pix in a jpg format, please send them to me.
Another New Comer in Florida asks where he/she can find them at this time of year? Since we don't know exactly where in Florida, it will be hard to identify a nursery. Perhaps one of the nurseries on our links page will help.
I guess the growing season may be slowing down for everyone since the activity on the web site seems to be slowing. Here in central Alabama it seems like the growing switch for my plants was turned to off on the first of August. Even with watering and fertilizer, I have seen very little growth in the past few weeks.
FROM: Susan
samiaga.mnc@erols.com
09/08/00 2:56 PM Central
To All- My experience with cuttings is that they tend to have a higher survival rate if you follow petes steps with the rooting powder, but then once they are planted in the soil, place a clear glass jar (i.e. mayo jar) over the cutting to make a small "greenhouse" for the new plant. This tends to keep the humidity higher which promotes new growth and insulates the temperature. My grandmother used to use this trick with her rosebush cuttings. -Susan
FROM: Susan
samiaga.mnc@erols.com
09/08/00 2:48 PM Central
Pete- In regards to your idea about a cuttings swap, I think that it would be a great idea. I think people would be willing to trade cuttings to acquire a new variety for their collections. You could place an area on your site where people could list the varieties they have or would like to obtain.
FROM: Susan
samiaga.mnc@erols.com
09/08/00 2:44 PM Central
Does anyone know if dried hydrangeas will retain their colors? I have only dried the "Annabelle" variety which turned from pure white to a pale green. Should they be cut and dried or dried on the plant?
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
09/08/00 9:28 AM Central
Cath....
Thanks for your note. I intend to write up a page on how I have handled cuttings...but have not done so yet. Here's my thoughts in response to your questions. This is based only on 2 years of trial and error with mopheads only, not on a lifetime of plant study.
Some people do use water to force the roots to start - that may even be the "correct" way.
As a practice, I cut the cuttings so there is a node near the bottom and a node near the top (4-6 inches is usual). If you have a very small leaf or two on the top node( 1" or less), leave them on, they will eventually fall off, but they seem to help some root development - don't leave any blooms on and not big leaves, they will take too much life out of the cutting.
I scratch off just a bit of the outside layer of skin on one side of the bottom node. Dip the bottom in water and then in a root powder. Plant into a gallon pot with about an inch above ground including the top node. Often I plant 2-3 to a pot to allow for some spoilage. If I have more than 1 success in a single pot, I will transplant directly into the ground, or into separate pots after 6-8 weeks depending on season and the amount of growth.
I use a soil that is 3 parts top soil, 1 part peat moss and 1 part dried manure. Get the soil damp through and through before planting.
I suspect you have mild enough temps there to keep them outdoors during the winter. Check the map on the web site. Temps below the mid teens are a threat. Keep the soil damp until the leaves begin to take shape in the spring. Then water more as needed.
FROM: Cath
Woome@lycos.com
09/08/00 1:56 AM Central
Howdy, I live in Northern California and just received some cuttings with blooms on it to propagate. I am a virgin Newcomer to your site and to growing Hydrangeas. I guess I need to cut off the blooms first. The cuttings are around 12-14 inches long. I'll cut them to 4 inches with a node on them. Is this right? After letting them sit in water for 5 or 6 days. Do I just put them in the ground? Will they take this way? How often to I need to water? Thank you.
FROM: Dennis C. During
dennis_c_during@hotmail.com
09/07/00 10:53 AM Central
Yes, I was trying to say that Mr. P's pictured H. should look the way it is pictured, if it is a healthy H. aspera.
FROM: Peggy
09/06/00 9:22 PM Central
I live in KY and have 4 hydrangea bushes. One is an Annabelle which has grown quite well in the 4 or 5 years I've had it. It has dozens of blooms on it, some of which are huge, but only one or 2 of them turned white. The rest have stayed green. Do I need to add something to the soil or what? I really would like to see all of these green blooms turn white next year. Any help would be appreciated. GREAT SITE! Thanks.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
09/06/00 4:55 PM Central
Hope that you all had a great Labor Day weekend.
We have a number of good questions this week on and off the Message Board.
From the Message Board:
First, thanks to Victoria for her suggestion about using Potash around the base to strengthen the stems. Anyone wishing to comment on that suggestion, please post your thoughts. Victoria, please let us know if that appears to work...even in the early stages this fall.
Victoria also asked for "Extremely clear instructions on how and when to prune (if at all)."
Victoria....my page on Raising Hydrangeas will give to my $.02 regarding pruning mopheads. On OTHER varieties, I think I read that you can prune back to the root level anytime after the first hard freeze...BUT I wouldn't take my word on it unless someone else verifies this.
Dennis comments that Mr. P's picture may be one of the H. aspera sub-species. Dennis, is whay you are saying that this is a normal growth pattern for those species? Also, you asked about a recent book, keep reading.
Ursala needs some PeeGee advice. Ursala, it seems lots of our visitors have PeeGee questions. I hope someone with a lot of PeeGee experience will help us all.
In the Mail Box:
Mary wants to know how to dry hydrangeas. On 8/17, Ed and Marge left some comments below on this page. Anyone wanting to write a more extensive set of instructions, pointers, etc. on drying the blooms, please do so and send it to me. I'll set up a separate page for it.
Here's Beth's email with a new book reference.
"I am a new visitor to your website and the unofficial hydrangea queen of Rome GA. I have about 35 varieties in the ground and am always looking to learn more. Have you seen the Glyn Church book called "Hydrangeas"? I saw a copy that Gene had at Wilkerson Mill gardens and he told me he ordered it from Amazon UK. I ordered my own copy and it is really a great companion to the Lawson-Hall book. I look forward to being a frequent visitor."
Beth...
With all those varieties, I hope you will join in with answers and suggestions for our web site visitors.
Here's Judy's email question.
Thanks for helping me to get info on my plants. Here are some pictures of what I get on my bushes. I have two bushes which are about 10 years old and never have bloomed completelly. As you can see in the photo, they only just start to open and then that is it. I have not pruned them in 3 years. Haven't cut anything off, not even a bloom that has not opened. I have been giving them coffee grounds and eggs shells twrice since I found out about that. Does any body else have this problem. Judy Beckman - I live where it gets below zero for several weeks in the winter. I live in Nebraska - Lindsay.
These pictures can be found at:
http://www.conweb.com/hydrangea/images/beckman1.jpg
http://www.conweb.com/hydrangea/images/beckman2.jpg
http://www.conweb.com/hydrangea/images/beckman3.jpg
Judy...
I suspect that everything above the ground is freezing too much in your sub-zero temps. The plant doesn't die, just the buds on the stems for next spring. It may be a pain, but if they are not too big, try potting one and bringing it inside for the winter before your first hard freeze.
Here's Von's email question:
I am new to raising Hydrangea. The flowers died, the leaves have fallen off. I am guessing it is in its dormant state. What do I do with it? I live in the Salt Lake City, Utah area so I doubt I can put it outside. I would like to keep it in the house and make it bloom again next year. What should I do? The plant is small, about 6 inches tall. Thank you for your help.
Von...
You should be able to keep the plant potted inside during the winter. You may even get some new growth earlier than usual. If it is a mophead variety, I understand that temperatures in the low teens or colder are the ones to worry about. Keep moist, but I would not water much until the new growth really begins, and then get back outside as ealy as possible. Don't prune. Other comments from folks closer to your area are welcome.
JoJo dropped us a note thanking us for the link to his article (see Suite 101 article on the links page) and also added a link back to our site. Thanks JoJo.
From the Newcomer Form:
Debby asked on the Newcomer form: " I haven't investigated the whole site yet, i'm interested in problem solving. My plant has 3 blooms."
Debby, a little more information would be helpful including the variety, the age, and your zone.
Kathy writes:
I really liked the site right before I clicked on to the newcomer link. It was the best site that I had looked at. I was researching the changes in acid/alkalinity for the different colors. I friend had told me this and I wanted to know how to do it. I really thought it may not be true. Now I can't wait to try it next year. I also have no trouble growing my plant and drying the flowers. I may try the cuttings next year also.
John asks: Why do the blossoms on my Pee Gee Hydrangea tree droop?
So folks, we still need some PeeGee help, cold weather help, and maybe a more extensive write up on drying the blooms. Please join in if you can. That's what an internet community is all about.
Have a great week.
FROM: Victoria Ridley
gemini@cyberus.ca
09/04/00 7:34 PM Central
I recently complained of my Nikko Blue hydrangea with branches that fell to the ground, the flowers in the dirt. I was advised to add some potash (0-0-60) to the earth around the plant this fall in order to help build stronger branches for next year. It's worth a try! (zone 4)
FROM: Ursula Brogan
uibrogan@yahoo.com
09/04/00 10:44 AM Central
Hi folks, I need some help. Several months ago I planted a tree form Pee Gee very near the front of my brick house. It seemed to be doing well until recently, when I noticed the back of the plant was wilting and the leaves yellowing. Someone told me the heat reflecting off the brick house was baking the plant and that I should move it out from the house several feet, which I did about a week ago. I gave it plenty of water every day since transplanting. The plant started to droop after a couple of days, and the leaves are all now turning yellow. Am I giving it too much water? Or not enough? Is this just transplant shock that will turn around? Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks in advance to all who respond. Ursula Brogan, Spokane, Washington (zone 5)
FROM: Dennis During
Dennis_c_during@hotmail.com
09/01/00 11:10 AM Central
Mr. P's (the photographer) sickly looking hydrangeas might be a subspecies of H. aspera. We thought we were doing something wrong with ours until we saw a picture of a specimen in a gardening encyclopedia and also got our other hydrangeas to flower in the more expected way. I've come to like H. aspera, although I prefer many of the others. Does anyone know of a good, recent hydrangea book with pictures and useful info.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/29/00 10:38 PM Central
There was one additional question in my email this week, again from Mr. P. He writes:
I am sending this pix because I think pictures speak louder than words.
The color always hides the dirt and filth but at least you can see what I am asking about.
What causes the decay ? Is it water, diseases, lack of water, to much heat, or is it just natural ????????
This is the second year I have seen this and it really bothers me because plants should not look like this. I have an Oak Leaf that has the same thing but remember I planted a lot and lost 20 % over the winter. I am in Zone 5 and trying to keep everything alive for the next year.
The pix can be found at:
http://www.conweb.com/hydrangea/images/jondeer5-crop.jpg
Mr. P...I begin to get a lot of imperfections of the leaves as the season wears on. It doesn't look like any kind of fungus I know of. Maybe some insect feeding, or it may be heat stress. I suspect it's more more the lateness of the season than anything else. Anyone else have any ideas to help out Mr. P.?
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/29/00 10:11 PM Central
Another week, another list of questions. If those of you on this list have other thoughts to the questions asked, please post them also. As I said on the Home Page, I am an amateur and anyone with more or better recommendations is welcome to jump in.
We had a question from JB directly to my email box. JB asks, " Why do the blossoms on my Pee Gee Hydrangea tree droop?
JB, Pee Gee's are not my area, I can only guess it is lack of water. My mopheads droop without water even within one day of watering in this Zone 7 heat we've been having, 90 degrees plus all this week alone. I have been asking for someone with Pee Gee experience to join us.
Victoria, you asked about blooms drooping onto the ground. I suspect that you have treated your plants very well and they have overbloomed for the size of the stems. Assuming that you have given them sufficient water (lack of water and the leaves droop,) try cutting out some of the blooms, a few at a time. That should results in less weight on the stems, allowing them to stay up. You may also benefit from increased growth on other stems nearby. Every time I pruned the blooms earlier this year the nearby stems grew quickly. However, that has seemed to slow down since the first of August as most of the new growth has ceased. My inside leaves are already beginning to turn yellow for fall. I never like to tie back a plant when I don't have to.
Mr. P...you asked about how to prepare for winter in zone 5. I need help here. I am in zone 7B almost 8 and have done nothing for winters here. Last year we did not get down below the mid-teens farenheit. Only a few winters in the past twenty have we reached single digits. Come on,you yankees, help this man out, please!
Deborah....that is exactly what I am saying on these mopheads. Don't cut the stems, or cut them only slightly for shape. If you have good leaf growth this year on the stems you trimmed off last year, you will get blooms next year - assuming not to heavy a freeze. Again, since I am not in your zone, I don't know what to expect there - except to say that I have read prolonged exposure to single digits may hurt the stems and you will have another year of primarily good leaves.
You can fairly well tell the condition of a stem by its color. Any darker brown color means there is life in the stem. Only when it turns very light brown, almost whitish is it dead. Cut an end off with your shears. Dead stems will snap clean. Another way to check is to gently bend the stem. If its dead, the plant will reject from the root cluster naturally and it will break off in your hand.
I began to see the buds from mid-March on.
Mr. P...our unoffical camera person sends this question by email.
Attached is a pix of an Annebella plant that has looked the same for two months.
The flower head has three or four flowers opened but the rest is still closed. I do not understand.
I have watered it and fed it Miracid every three weeks. I do not understand.
The pix can be found at this URL:
http://www.conweb.com/hydrangea/images/jondeer4-crop.jpg
I suspect here that the plant has decided the growing season is over. I know that since the first of August, I have seen no signs of growth on any of my plants.
Your good care resulted in the plant trying a couple of late season blooms, but didn't quite make it....again this is a very uninfomed conjecture on my part.
That's it for this week. I would really be interested in receiving cutting from anyone for any hydrangeas, except the standard Nikko Blue and Oak Leaf. I am particularly looking for some Annabelle cuttings, and some cuttings from anyone with a naturally red variety. Please see mailing information on the Home Page.
FROM: Deborah B.
acres@erinet.com
08/29/00 7:59 PM Central
To continue, in what month will the old stems that look dead after winter, show signs of life?
FROM: Deborah B.
acres@erinet.com
08/29/00 7:57 PM Central
Pete, I am in zone 5. Are you saying NOT to prune the stems after the winter to ensure bloom? They sure looked dead to me so I pruned them back. The shrubs regrew and the leaves look beautiful, but I only had 3 blooms on one plant and 1 bloom on a Nikko blue.
FROM: Mr. P
Jondeer4u@aol.com
08/27/00 11:55 PM Central
I live in zone 5 and have planted many zone 6 Hydrangeas in my yard. When is the best time to cover before the real winter starts? What type cover should I use? I have used burlap around a wire cage with grass and tree leaves in the middle. Last year I had two or three not start showing leaves until the first of June. The only thing showing was dead branches and new shoots sprouted off the side of the plant. The plants in question were almost 1 1/2 feet tall.
FROM: Victoria Ridley
gemini@cyberus.ca
08/27/00 8:43 AM Central
My hydrangea blooms flop over and lie around the plant on the ground. How do I keep the branches/blooms upright? Tie back?
FROM: Bill
billp@wr.com.au
08/25/00 3:19 PM Central
Thanks for the page on 'Pee Gees', Pete, I had a H. Paniculata some years ago after seeing a border of them in England some yeas ago. Unfortunately mine never really grew and eventually died. I put my failure down to the plant being in a dryish spot and under a too shady tree. I can't remember if my variety was 'Grandiflora' though. It is a lovely hydrangea but I suspect more difficult to grow than the hortense group.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/23/00 8:23 PM Central
Bill...
I added a new page with some information about the PeeGee variety. Please visit the web site when you get a chance.
FROM: Bill
billp@wr.com.au
08/23/00 3:13 PM Central
What's a 'Pee Gee' hydrangia? Does the variety have another name ie species, varietal? Kathy mentions it's a 'tree H.'if it is a hydrangea species my immediate thoughts are to prune out the old wood and encourage new growth, and maybe try taking a cutting and starting a new plant. Also, is the plant growing in too much shade?
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/22/00 12:36 AM Central
Sorry about not replying sooner to the questions that have built up.
Judy finally got the web site open and her questions were answered. We still don't know why Surfwatch didn't like the site.
Richard...I would wait until the leaves drop before pruning. Remember on mopheads next years blooms come off this years stems, so prune for shape only.
Cynthia...thanks for your kind words.
Dennis...Hope this web site helps you.
Alfred...If you go to the Hydrangea Plus catalog page at http://www.hydrangeasplus.com/catalog_main.html that is a breakdown of most of the major catagories.
Renee....As I've said elsewhere on the web site, I don't know anything about PeeGee's but would sure appreciate some help from anyone who does.
The Blue Nikki should bloom at least by its second full year. Are you pruning it too much? The leaves on my mopheads are now turning yellow and beginning to drop. This is just the end of the season. They have some brown spots in them also, but different than stress brown on the edges that is from lack of water and too much sun. I don't think you loved it too much unless you have overtrimmed it. I don't know about preparing for the winter in Ky. I know you don't want to prune the mopheads back much. While I understand some plants can freeze above ground in very cold temperatures, this will probably only inhibit the blooms for one year. Just hope that the varieties you have are indiginous to your temperatures. And you are right, it does seem these plants have a mind of their own.
Joanne....Some of the non-mophead varieties prefer to be trimmed. I need to know what variety you have.
Candy...By now if you have read the information on the web site, you know that on the typical mophead varieties, the blooms come from buds that grow on the prior seasons stems. That is why you got blooms on the plant untouched and only leaves on the plant you trimmed. I have had no problem transplanting as long as I have taken along a ball of dirt at least as wide as the majority of the branches and as deep as you can reasonably get. The hole you plant into should be twice as large as the ball filled with good soil. See my comments on soil on the Raising Hydrangeas page.
That's all for now. We now have a picture gallery started on the website. Please stop by and submit your favorite Hydrangea pix to me in jpg or gif format.
FROM: Candy
WakeandCandy@webtv.net
08/20/00 2:42 PM Central
I bought a house last fall with two hydrangea bushes. Didn't know what to do so I cut one back and let one as is. The one I left as is is blooming and the one I cut back hast huge leaves and no blooms. What happened? also I want to transplant the one with huge leaves (this fall) how do I do this?
FROM: Renee Chason
snook930@webtv.net
08/19/00 9:20 PM Central
You know I'm beginning to think these beautiful little bushes are tempermental. They have a mind of there own.
FROM: Joanne Clough
joanne_81@hotmail.com
08/19/00 8:05 PM Central
Help! Last year I cut most of the dead wood stems off of my plants. They bloomed beautifully-mostly blue, some pink flowers. This year I barely touched them and I have very few green flowers. What did I do wrong?
FROM: Renee Chason
snook930@webtv.net
08/19/00 7:27 PM Central
Great site!!! I am also a lover of hydrangea. I bought 6 plants this spring. I had a few blooms but that was all. I also have a PeeGee who never flowered. I had beauitful blooms on my lacecap. I also have a blue nikki that never bloomed. Does it take a few years for young plants to bloom? I also have one that the leaves have redish-brown spots on it and they are turning yellow and falling off. Did I love it to much or does it have a disease? I live in Kentucky how do I prepare them for the winter? Thanks Renee
FROM: Alfred Iwasaki
iwasaki@direct.ca
08/19/00 7:22 PM Central
Has anyone published a key to help identify Hrdrangeas? Is there a classification system that puts them into different groups? ....even for the major species would be helpful.
FROM: Dennis C. During
Dennis_C_During@hotmail.com
08/19/00 12:51 PM Central
We're in Mount Vernon, NY (Westchester County). We've lucked into a variety of hydrangeas, but want to learn how to get the best from ours (and new varieties).
FROM: cynthia
cynthiavalley@yahoo.com
08/19/00 10:30 AM Central
Well, thanks to Pete, I won't cut my hydrangeas back this fall, and maybe, just maybe I'll actually enjoy some blooms next spring. Lots of info, for a novice gardener like me. Thanks, and looking forward to reading the postings.
FROM: Richard
pinelandnj@earthlink.net
08/18/00 2:24 PM Central
When is best time to prune hydrangeas. We moved one and it is lopsided due to previous location restricting growth. Thanks
FROM: Judy Beckman
beckman@megavision.com
08/18/00 8:28 AM Central
I cannot get your web page to open on my computer because of Surfwatch Guard. I need to know why my hydrangeas are not blooming. Please reply.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/18/00 8:02 AM Central
Lack of blooms on many common varieties of hydrangeas is from over pruning. On these varieites, most of the blooms come from buds on the prior year's stems. (Not necessarily all the blooms. I have had some late season blooms on new growth, but only on well fertilized, very healthy plants.) Best quick advice, don't prune. Or, prune slightly for shape. Sometimes Joe, we give them too much TLC :')
Also, if you experienced very cold weather last winter, the stems and buds forming for this year may have frozen. and your only growth this year is new stems. You can tell if last years stems are viable. Look at the color of the stems. If you have woody brown stems with good leaves, then these are last year's stems and they are viable. If you only have leaves on the green stems, these stems are this year's growth and you should get buds and blooms next year unless they freeze again. Janet, soil conditions and drainage can change in 8' that may make one plant freeze and another not. Hope this helps both of you.
Ed and Marge, thanks for your comments about drying blooms.
FROM: Joe Zavaglia
katiejoe@adelphia.net
08/17/00 9:01 PM Central
Last year, I planted 3 hydrangea bushes in the same area of my garden. Two of the 3 have bloomed each year but the third one hasn't bloomed. It has no buds and it received the same tender loving care as the other two. Why hasn't it bloomed and will it bloom in the future?
FROM: marge
edandmarge@tcmax.net
08/17/00 3:08 PM Central
I have had the best luck drying hydranges by cutting them several weeks after they have bloomed. I cut all the leaves off the stem, hang them upside down in our outdoor shed. They will not keep the vibant colors as well, but, they do dry beautifully. It takes about 6 days for them to dry. The shed is dry and hot. Hope this helps some. If any have better ideas, please let me know.
FROM: Janet Adams
jadams@sfcpa.edu
08/17/00 8:17 AM Central
I have a large hydrangea that does not bloom. Any ideas? It appears very healthy. A smaller plant located appx. 8' away had one bloom.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/14/00 8:20 AM Central
Carol & Ken. Received your message to be added to mailing list. My reply to you at you email address bounced back with the message "unknown at destination site". I'd be pleased to add you to the mailing list when it gets going. Please send me another email and please check the email address. Thanks.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/14/00 8:10 AM Central
Can anyone help Kathy?
FROM: Kathy
kbauer1854@aol.com
08/13/00 10:22 PM Central
My friend has a Pee Gee Hydrangea with a wide older trunk and the branches are wide and continue up about 12" to 18" before just a few leaves and flowers begin. How can she correct this problem? How far down can she prune this tree hydrangea?
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/12/00 9:59 PM Central
My blooms lasted 35-50 days before starting to turn green. I don't know a lot about your white hydrangea, but you may just be at the end of their natural blooming cycle. As long as they are healthy, go I would not be very concerned.
FROM: R. Lawrence
timlaw50@aol.com
08/12/00 9:28 PM Central
Planted "Sister Theresa White" 2 mos ago in our region (hot summers, mild winters with some freezing). It had large white blooms that are now starting to turn green. It gets morning sun, not afternoon. Do you know why it is turning green?
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/12/00 12:12 PM Central
Sorry, I didn't repsond sooner. I'm not into pee gee's at all, so I can't answer. Maybe someone else reading this page will post an answer and send an email copy directly to you.
FROM: Heyward
hhbpdc@mindspring.com
08/08/00 3:52 PM Central
I have a pee gee hydrangea that has not bloomed in three years. How far south can you grow a peefee and still have it bloom. It has grown great but no blooms. Any help will be appreciated.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/07/00 12:11 AM Central
Thanks for your kind words. Come back again.
FROM: Lisa
lawrenceand lisa@hotmail.com
08/06/00 7:50 PM Central
Just happened upon your website-nice. I've loved hydrangeas since I was a little girl. My grandfather had beautiful hydrangeas in his yard in Georgia. He died in 1965, but we have taken cuttings from his plants every time we have moved. Now I have three plants in my backyard that originally came from his yard. I think of him every time I see them. Not bad to have something like that 35 years later. I was 11 when he died. Enjoyed your website.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/06/00 2:13 PM Central
Most of what I have read says to transplant when the plant is in its most dormant state, probably late fall or very early spring. You will want to soak the ground well after the transplant, so avoid too close to freezing temperatures.
I have had good luck with all my transplants even during the growing months. I use the same principles as when I take hydrangeas from the pots - prepare a hole twice the size of the ball - use a good soil mix, mound up dirt after plants and soak well. See the Raising Hydrangea page elsewhere on the site.
Good Luck...let us know how you make out.
FROM: Eric Thurston
egt@magma.ca
08/06/00 7:39 AM Central
When is the best time to, and how does one transplant a hydrangea to ensure its vaibility. Thanks.
FROM: Pete Smith
cpsmith@conweb.com
08/04/00 8:55 AM Central
Welcome to the Hydrangea Message Board. This is a very simplified messaging system - (sorry, I wrote it myself). It acts a lot like your refrigerator - newest messages on top. All messages with email addresses are sent to members of the Hydrangea Mailing List
Any other questions, please contact me,
Pete Smith